If you’re hoping for a new, stylish look for your garage, why not install carriage house garage doors? They’re a bit on the difficult side to get into place, but if you think you’re a weekend warrior, you can do this project in about 20 hours over the course of a weekend.
Assuming you’re installing new doors, this step-by-step guide won’t cover the removal of existing carriage house garage doors, but instead will focus on initial hardware installation and getting the door tracks in place. It’s difficult, but when it’s all said and done, you’ll have the best-looking garage front on the block.
Beginning Hardware Installation
1) Remove any existing weather stripping, and replace this all with a matching cedar piece. Measure the stop area and the weather stripping you just removed.
2) Use a hacksaw to cut your piece to the right size, and use your utility knife to trim any excess off the vinyl stripping. You also want to tack it in place right now, since you’ll be able to make adjustments for a tighter fit after the door is installed.
3) Drill any necessary pilot holes for the hardware that came with your carriage doors, and be sure to fasten any lag screws first. These screws should be marked red, since this serves as a warning – once the door is installed, removal of these screws is very, very dangerous, and should not be attempted on your own.
Continuing Hardware Installation
4) Before your first hinge gets set up, measure the placement and use a speed square, in order to mark out where the central hinge holes need to sit so that they line up. Drill your secondary pilot hole, and take your lag screw to secure it in place.
5) When the hardware in the first section is complete, get the bottom section centered inside the door opening, and check to make sure that the bottom is absolutely level – this will make sure that the rest of the panels are able to stay level and fit correctly.
6) Get the panel tacked in onto the side jamb, which will keep the panels in their place until you’re set to install the door tracks. You can now add your next panel, again positioning it to that to grooves of both sections are aligned.
7) Line up the hinges on the bottom section so that you can tie it together with the second section. Attach these.
Vertical/Horizontal Track Installation: Part 1
8) You can start stacking your doors into place, since you’ll need things set up in order to install the tracks correctly. First, level your track with the door – not the floor of the garage.
9) Get the vertical track slid overtop the roller, making sure that the distance from the top of the track to the top of the door is equal on both the left and right sides. If you have any more lag screws, secure these now.
10) The space between the track and door needs to be about a ½” uniform area. If you’re pulling the nails out, use a shim behind the hammer, in order to prevent the tool from damaging the door.
Vertical/Horizontal Track Installation: Part 2
11) Your horizontal track needs to line up on the vertical track, and you should have bolts that are able to secure these two tracks in place together. When they’re in place, level the tracks to the door bracket.
12) The back of the horizontal bracket needs to be mounted to the mounting bracket at the rear of the door. Check again to level it, and then bolt it into its place.
13) When you install your torsion spring, get it slid through the bearing plate so that you can anchor the central support bracket to the 2×6. This will hold the torsion bar in its correct place.
14) You’ll be able to slide the drum onto the torsion bar, and then attach the drum and the cable together. Place a hook on the notch, and then begin winding the drum. When the cable is tight, the set screws can be tightened as well.
15) Make sure you don’t tighten the set screws too far, since the drums are typically made from cast aluminum and may crack. With the winding bars, you should be able to tighten the spring to whatever tension is specified in your door instructions.
Now your door is ready for a trial run.